Jose'

It took a while for me to get the settings on both the PSR-3000 and the PAS the way I wanted. However, once it was achieved, the sounds really improved quite a bit.

On the Bose base unit, I'm using the #57 preset and inputs #1 and #2 are hooked up to the keyboard's standard outputs--not the psuedo-mono. The volume control on the base unit is set at "6" and the Phantom power it set to off.

On the remote, the channel volume controls are set at the halfway point (straight up), the bass volue is also set at the halfway point and the bid and high range controls are set at the first mark to the right of the "0" which would be +4.

I position the tower about 3 feet off to my right or left, depending on the area I have to set up, and about 2 feet back from the back end of the keyboard. I've found the best sound I get with the sub's position is the place it directly between the front legs of the keyboard stand and facing sidways. Essentially, this too would depend on the venue's configuration, but thus far it has worked out well for long, narrow rooms with high ceilings and "L" shaped rooms where I'm not even seeing half the audience.

For the PSR-3000's settings, the master EQ I'm have the best success with is 4, 3, 2, 5, 8. The mic settings are as follows:

Low EQ= 80-hz @ 0-db
Mid EQ= 2.2-khz @ +4-db
High EQ= 10-khz @ +9-db

Noise gate ON, TH -60db
Compressor: On, -20, 5.0, 110
Vocal Harmony: Play, Off, Lower, L35>H, Auto, XF, Off, 85

Usually I set the PSR 3000's main volume at about mid range or a bit higher, then adjust the main volume of the PAS on the remote control, which is Velcro'd to the right side of the keyboard where's it's easily accessible.

ALmost forgot--A few days ago I custom built a 10-foot subwoofer cable following the specifications outlined by Bose technical support. I used a bit heavier wire (14-gauge) than the 16-gauge wire they called for--just to be safe. This allows a bit more versitility in positioning the sub in relation to the tower. Additionally, I'm replacing the short power cord with a 10-footer of the same wire guage and both cables will be wrapped with flexible cable wrap, which is available from Radio Shack for under $4 for a 10-fot length. I have already constructed a main harness for both audio cables, the remote cable and my connection that rums from the laptop to the PAS inputs. All of these cables are housed with cable wrap and makes a much neater package. I tested the system at various volumes and there was no interference because of the cables being close together. I'll post some photos of the setup at a later date.

Hope this is of some help,

Gary

[This message has been edited by travlin'easy (edited 07-04-2005).]