Looks like I got a little too enthusiastic with the cymbals at the end of God Bless the USA last night. The Multi Pad 4 button has gone down into the keyboard, still playable at a pinch, looks like it's broken at the top and bent over into the keyboard.

Any ideas on how I can repair this?

Thanks

Graham

If I recall correctly, the button alone cannot be replaced. I believe it is mounted on a PC board with several other buttons and the entire board must be replaced.

Good Luck,

Gary

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Travlin' Easy

Hi Guys - I have withheld til now, but since I have had a similar experience, here is my Tyros 2 "horror story"...

About 4 months ago (T2 was about 2 months old!)...I was moving some stuff around in my studio... I had a Bose roommate speaker (powered job) in my hand and it slipped as I was moving it above the T2... YUCK. It fell from my hand, the corner glanced off the T2 display... OUCH! After doing a "crack check", I was happy to see the speaker had only made a slight scratch (maybe the diameter of a toothpick) on my screen. You can imagine my anxiety as I powered the T2 on... and I was elated to see that the screen was not broken and everything was OK. So I did a playing check... the style that was selected was one that wasn't suited to my "test song"...and I hit another registration button...I was shocked to discover that the same style was selected! I tried it again, and noticed that when I selected a new registration button, the style changed for an instant to the "selected" style...and then went back to the style I was trying to get rid of... Then I noticed what had happened... the speaker also bounced off the 7th registration button, and it had smashed it down to the point that the button was jammed under the keyboard cover and would not release. Therefore, no matter what syle I selected, the jammed button overrode my selection and I had a "one style" T2!

I told the wife.... "you better go shopping or leave the house" as I retrieved my toolkit from the garage. With a sinking feeling in my gut, I turned my precious new toy upside down on the carpet and began removing all the screws that kept me from seeing the complexity of this beast.

I'll spare the drama from here on out. The bottom line is that there are several layers of circuit boards mounted above the button contacts, which must be carefully removed. I also had to disconnect a couple ribbon cables to get the boards out of the way as I proceeded. Once I had removed a couple circuit boards, I saw the problem - the registration buttions (for me, the set for buttons 5-8) are supported on a plastic frame. My "accident" had overstressed the plastic support for button "7" and it didn't return to the normal position even after I freed it up from being blocked by the case opening. I discovered that I could put some scotch tape across the plastic frame and it reinforced the button and allowed it to return to a normal position. I reassembled the T2 (very carefully) and have since enjoyed error free playing and my "7" is not a "dominant 7th" (HA HA) anymore. KNOCK ON WOOD!

I would suggest if you contemplate removing the cover, that you write down where things are located as you remove them. To get at the buttons, you will have to remove several cards. I am not suggesting that you should do this... I only undertook the project because I am a HAM radio operator and a stubborn guy. But the REAL reason I took this on was that I couldn't stand the idea of parting with my T2 for months while it was shipped around the country and sitting on a shelf in the repair queue.

I also learned a painful lesson about handling heavy things over my keyboard. I don't do that anymore.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

Randy

[This message has been edited by saxxman (edited 09-01-2006).]

I dropped a digital recorded one time and same thing happened to one of the buttons. Like saxman, I disassembled the unit VERY carefully. Several buttons were connected on a plastic grid. The grid was broken for that button. I superglued it together, reassembled and hey, it worked like a charm and never failed again!

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Bill
Yamaha PSR2000

Ty1 and 2 are great boards, but the chassis is a piece of junk unfortunately. Here is where I think Roland and Korg have spent some more money in roadworthiness. Of course it adds weight, but I wish Yamaha would add some stronger composite material on a "PRO" series keyboard.

No disrespect to Yammie PSR, and Tyros owners, but the reason regarding construction quality posted by "royandreno" is exactly why I will not buy another Yamaha arranger, be it Pro or even Semi Pro. I was really upset by the construction quality of the PSR-3000. It just really bothered me why Yammie would pack in all those features, give it a $1,500 price tag, and build it like a Casio WK.

Sure we can argue day and night on who has better sounds, and blah blah blah, but Korg and Roland do (in my opinion) give you a more solidly built product.

Squeak

[This message has been edited by squeak_D (edited 09-01-2006).]

Hey Bill - Kewl! Glad to hear that you had success too. Graham, the T2 is also exactly like Bill described his board...there is a plastic frame which has 4 buttons connected to it...the buttons "rock" back and forth to contact the circuit card underneath. When my speaker hit the button, it pressed that particular button so hard that its "new" resting position was in constant contact with the circuit board. The most tedious part of this for me (once I got past the fear factor!) was repositioning the little black cloth liner which rides between the buttons and their circuit card. None of this was really that hard - but you definitely want to take your time and think about everything you are going to do before you execute.

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to order a new button grid if you can find the parts list (particularly if your button is broken). I am going to try to order mine just in case my "scotch tape fix" goes south on me.

Randy

Hey Guys... I certainly will agree w/you regarding the "fragility factor". While I do love the "less weight", I wish the T2 was more tank-like. In all fairness though, I was amazed that the corner of a 10-pound speaker did not penetrate the Tyros display even though it was dropped from about 10 inches over the screen. The moment it happened I assumed the screen was toasted.

I was lucky I know.

So I certainly agree. I paid a price for light weight and am learning to make up for it by being much more careful.

Randy

While I was playing my G1000, a gadget case containing mics , harmonizer, Zip drive , cables etc, fell and emptied the contents on the keyboard from about 3 feet above..I pushed the stuff away from my keys and continued playing my song...

I guess I agree it is built better..

Thanks for everyone's input. I called Yamaha ((714) 522-9000, Please call Monday – Friday, between between 7:30am – 5:00pm PST/PDT press 1 and press 1 for Electronic Parts) and ordered the part.

Given the cautions, I figured if I'm going to take it apart I had better do it right first time. The part (the whole 4 multipad grill) cost me $45.50 plus tax plus shipping, but the worst part is that it is on back order from Japan 4-6 weeks. Oh, well as you say an expensive lesson, hopefully well learned.

I'm still not feeling too bad about it, since the audience reaction to the song was wonderful. They (300 people) all stood up half way through the song, and joined in singing the last chorus. Quite a moment!

Graham