Thanks Gary,

Don't mind my ignorance - but I'm not sure what the 'leaf switch' is, nor how to bypass it.

I called Yamaha, and they said they have the spare part for $100. I can't just buy the $3 socket as it is welded into the board and connected to at least four points on that board. I don't really want to put that kind of money into my backup keyboard...

I did pull out the plug to the whole headphone section - but all that did was disable all four of the speakers.

Thanks, Chony.

Chony,
You're welcome; hopefully we can help you figure out what the problem is.

As Gary said, what you did to clean the headphone jack might not do the trick. The jack contacts are "springy", and normally held closed when no plug is inserted. That, and their positioning in the jack, makes cleaning them somewhat difficult. Also, I've experienced metal fatigue/fracture in jack switch contacts, causing them to no longer make contact; no amount of cleaning will fix that.

If the jack is accessible, and you can determine which contacts to short together, what Gary suggested is the way to diagnose the jack. I don't know any details of the
8000's headphone jack arrangement; in fact,
headphone jacks come in various forms, with some having wires soldered directly while others are mounted to a pc board. (BTW, if it's on a pc board, you might check for a possibly bad solder connection there.) A switching-type headphone jack typically has 5 connections; one of them is common (ground), and connects to a plug's sleeve when it's inserted. Two would connect to a plug's tip and ring, and the remaining two are the L & R speaker-switch connections. If you can't determine which are which, I'd suggest NOT randomly jumping them to troubleshoot the problem.

I mentioned the chance (unlikely though it is) of both tweeter and woofer being out because it's not impossible. In fact, what sometimes happens is that a tweeter fails first, but it isn't immediately noticed. (Please don't take this as a reflection on your hearing or powers of observation!) Then, when the woofer goes, it becomes very obvious, because the entire side is out. Swapping speaker wiring, as Roel suggested, could allow you to eliminate (or verify) that cause.

Although I don't have a schematic for the 8000 to help confirm this, the fact that the headphones work on both channels makes it highly unlikely that much is wrong. Unless there are speaker fuses in-circuit after the headphone jack, a blown fuse isn't a cause to consider.

Best of luck.

Edit: Chony,I just saw your response to Gary, which you posted while I was writing the above. If you have a means of posting photos of the headphone jack "wiring" (soldering to the board, etc.), I could probably tell you which to try jumping. If you don't care about headphone jack speaker switching operation, that could be made permanent. However, since you referred to the jack as being "welded" in place (I'm sure you meant "soldered" ), perhaps you could have a friend help with this.

--Barry


[This message has been edited by quietDIN (edited 07-18-2005).]

I'll try to scan and post the schematic diagram to this part later today. It's a small board with very few components. The jack is soldered to the board and has 7 connections. I would not recommend replacing the board, especially at the rediculous price of $100. The cost of the components and the board to Yamaha were probably less than $5 at the most--what a rip-off.

Gary

Chony,
Sometimes one of the amplifiers just 'dies'(one channel) or in case the L & R amps have a fuse of 'their own' one of fuses can be blown.

Perhaps I missed it, but does your headphone sound OK on both sides ? This is important to know.
If the headphone sounds OK : Please try to switch speakers first before starting other actions !


[This message has been edited by Roel (edited 07-18-2005).]

Sorry I didn't get to this last night, but here's the board you were talking about--nothing complex, and not worth $100.



Gary

[This message has been edited by travlin'easy (edited 07-19-2005).]

Thanks Gary -- this is actually not the board on the 8000. The 8000 also has a mic input!

Although, the socket does look the same as on the 8000. There are 7 soldered connections. Which one do I have to jump -- and how do I jump it?

(Btw when I disengaged the whole board, I got no sound at all.)

Thanks again, Chony.

[This message has been edited by chony (edited 07-19-2005).]

Pull out the speakers and call it a 9000 PRO!!!

Chony,

I don't have the schematic for the 9000. This board is for the 3000, but the connections at the plug are very similar. However, you can determine which connections to jump if you have an OHM Meter. Without the board, the signal cannot get to the speakers or the headphone.

Sorry I cannot be of more help,

Gary

------------------
Travlin' Easy

First Question: Is the keyboard in warranty? If so Yamaha would fix it for free.

If it isn't, and you are unfamilar with electronics, find a local electronic repair shop, they should only charge you about 60.00 for the 5-10 mins it will take them to fix a 1-3 dollar part (replacing it).



------------------
Paul Davis
Generalmusic
Generalmusic.US

I WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERYBODY FOR ALL THEIR ADVICE AND HELP! YOU ALL WENT OUT OF YOUR WAYS, AND THAT'S WHAT I LOVE ABOUT THE SYNTHZONE COMMUNITY - ITS ALL ABOUT GIVING!!!

THANK YOU! Chony.

In the end though, it seems that I'll just have to take this to a local fixer!