I'm sorry, but if the speaker causes the current to go ahead the voltage than maybe you should use a capacity in line to the speaker to eliminate this effect...
Isn't this a known fact out of Germany?

And it is a normal way to calculate the optional power inside through the incoming power of the power supply and (if you want to take it very exactly) the power which is blowing in the air...
How else would you know how many power your power amp will support?
Uh, yes , I forgot...if the manufacturer writes 250 watts RMS, then you'll know it...
And hey, you're absolutely right to say that the power is not the main thing but Scott had asked about that...

Oh, by the way, for me it makes not a big difference wether you use 220 volts or 230 volts (or sometimes 240 volts?). And also I remember a question by a member of this forum who lives in america. He'd asked about the power of his amp and it was switched to 230 volts by manufacturer. Is it possible that there are some states of america which are providing higher voltages than 110/120 volts? That would be very interesting for me...

In the example above I've written 0.5 amps at 220 volts. If you're using 110 volts than the current should be about 1.0 amps (based on the fact that 175 watts are not RMS but peak-to-peak). It's not good to make such cloudy specifications like RMS which nobody can really understand. We are musicians and music consumers we don't understand such terms like SPDIF, SMPTE, RMS, and so on...but nevertheless the manufacturers hold on to bombard us with such terms...

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Greetings from Frankfurt (Germany),
Sheriff ;-)

[This message has been edited by Sheriff (edited 05-05-2005).]